If you’ve been following me for a while, chances are you’ve noticed I resort to colour and contrast on most of my attires. It comes naturally to me to pair complementing shades across different garments, in order to achieve a proper result: mind you, the use of colour doesn’t necessarily mean bold or extravagant, but rather a tonal harmony when visualising the entire ensemble. Depending on your vision and interpretation of style, you may find the use of contrast a valuable ally or a defying alternative; many men and women find it easier to choose monochromatic looks, favouring one shade alone (with black being the most popular option). Personally, I find monochromatic looks much more challenging, maybe due to my sensitivity and appreciation for colour matching.
In fact, I become much more demanding in what regards subtle colour nuances, which leads me to incorporate other elements such as texture into the mix. Even when deprived of other colours to create visual appeal, contrast can be achieved through more striking differences between hues of the same shade, while texture adds depth and interest. But again, this might just me overthinking a solid choice able to portray some of the most sophisticated attires on the book. On this occasion I went with blue, a menswear staple often considered the safest bet for those whose main interests don’t include style or clothing. Nonetheless, opting for navy or blue doesn’t have to translate to boring or dull attires, as is the case here.
The double-breasted coat is a trademark design from one of the most impressive Portuguese manufacturers I’ve come across in the tailoring niche: Davion. Its semi-industrial approach to made-to-measure garments, along with extensive know-how, makes them a revered choice among renowned international brands. I couldn’t be more impressed with the result, especially taking into account I didn’t have a chance to do fittings or visit them in person, so the whole process was carried out from a distance (from fabric and design up to measurements). When I finally tried it on, the fit and construction were impeccable, on par with many of the so-called bespoke offerings on the market. The Donegal tweed simply elevates the perfect fit and attention to detail, making it that more exclusive and unique. On the bottom, a darker Donegal tweed from Vitale Barberis Canonico brings to life a pair of bespoke trousers by Ayres, featuring my own design. I’ve been favouring a wider leg and plays on proportion and after a few iterations, I was able to perfect a double pleated carrot trouser, with considerable volume on the thigh and tapering towards the ankle. To lighten the mood, a light wash denim shirt by Santillo is juxtaposed with a darker wash denim vest by Fortela. Accessories such as the polka dot tie and fedora finish the look, whereas the cognac tassel loafers bring an unexpected twist to the mix.
Details: Made-to-measure donegal double breasted coat by Davion, denim shirt by Santillo 1970, denim vest by Fortela, bespoke donegal trousers by Ayres Bespoke, polka dot silk tie by Purificacion Garcia, navy fedora by Borsalino, cognac loafers by Herring Shoes and shades by The Bespoke Dudes Eyewear.
Model and Styling: Miguel Amaral Vieira
Ph: Dulce Daniel