On Rugged Tailoring

I’ve been finding myself more and more distant from the idea of formally suiting up on a daily basis. Granted, my lifestyle and work environment greatly contribute to it: I ride a cafe racer to work on a daily basis and end up doing a range of tasks from styling, to photography and marketing management. It’s not so much about comfort and versatility, as a proper suit will be able to withstand such endeavors, as it is about suitability to my environment and love for a garment that would likely be destroyed riding a bike. Plus, my personal style has also evolved into somewhat of a more “European chic meets Japanese, with a vintage feel”, if that is even a thing.

The combination of all these factors at this time of my life results in a distinctive style where rugged pieces are mixed with vintage and bespoke. The truth is I find this eclectic merging of influences more accurate of my personal, individual style, than a full suit with shirt and tie, however impeccable it may be. In the end, it all comes down to personality and sense of style, which in my case, is best portrayed through a more rugged tailored look. Without wanting to take credit from those who don a suit in a brilliant way, it seems nowadays the suit has become the embodiment of male style, which is far from the truth.

If you take a look at the latest edition of Pitti per instance, it becomes clear that a misconception of “style” has spread like an epidemic among the newcomers and “influencers” alike. In their understanding, all they need to become stylish or elegant is to sport a suit its complementary accessories: a fedora, pocket square, tie, and lapel embellishments. In the opinion of someone who has been attending Pitti for the last 7 years straight, I believe there are but a handful of individuals who undoubtedly kill the suit look, which mind you, is not for everyone. As such, the result is a herd of men who look eerily the same, without a spark of personal style in sight and who ultimately are being worn by their suits instead of the other way around.

That being said, the look I’m depicting here is likely what best materializes my current interpretation of style. It’s rugged, relaxed, yet polished enough to adjust to most occasions I may come across. This trouser silhouette is my personal favorite: a variation on the carrot shape, wider at the hips and tapering towards the ankle, with a particular “double pleat”. They are bespoke and inspired by a vintage army pattern I found and these ones, in particular, are made from an extremely sturdy deadstock army canvas weighing around 450 gr (they can almost stand on their own). The relaxed silhouette is balanced by a fitted Boglioli check shirt and the brown twill jacket by East Harbour Surplus.

The matching suede loafers from Luxury Shoes Italia beautifully complement the entire outfit, as do the accessories: clip-on shades by The Bespoke Dudes Eyewear, the “Coke” GMT Master-II, and one of my current favorites, a Navajo inspired belt by Adriano Meneghetti. I met Adriano during last Pitti and was immediately taken by the craftsmanship of his belts and bags, definitely worth a closer look. Furthermore, he is now expanding his offerings to include bespoke suits, so keep that in mind if you’re considering one.

Ph: Dulce Daniel

Model and Styling: Miguel Amaral Vieira