Inspiration/Translation

I can’t help to be amazed by the sheer amount of inspirational sources we bump into on our daily routines, even if, at times, we pass them by completely unaware. To be able to focus on little details of the surrounding mundane envelope and absorb their essence, definitely requires highly developed senses of observation and sensitivity. 

When designers present their creations on the runway, one of the inevitable questions that follows is – “where did you get your inspiration from?” The wide span of answers usually contains a few that catch us by surprise and leave us wondering how on earth did they come up with that… Although I’m nowhere near the genius minds behind some of these collections, I too am inspired by numerous sources, some of which share no direct connection to fashion. 

One I’ve been dwelling on about, is the handcrafted façade tiles on century old buildings in downtown Porto. It’s impossible not to stare when faced with the astonishing artwork on these pieces, perfectly combining elements such as color, pattern and texture, all common to the clothing universe. I’ve incorporated several of those references in my own attire but when I came across this picture, I just knew I had to write about it.

The thing is, the pattern on this case is exactly the same that can be found on the house my family’s currently refurbishing, albeit in a different color scheme. 

As Sir Paul Smith so eloquently put it: “Inspiration can be found everywhere; if you can’t, you’re not looking properly”. If carefully curated, some of these patterns could result in potentially appealing garments or accessories, bringing to life a rich cultural heritage. 

A small sample of other traditional tile motifs

Source: Viuva Lamego

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A flowering trend…

Although I’ve mentioned florals before, I still hadn’t had the chance to fully address this much hyped pattern. Every other day, some new garment or accessory makes its way into the spotlight simply by sporting this nature inspired print. The sheer fact that its popularity is growing, while struggling with social, cultural and gender based ill-formed preconceptions, is not only proof that men are more conscious about their style but that this pattern is a resilient one. As with all bold prints, the chances of getting it wrong are proportional to the risks you’re willing to take.

Whereas concepts such as scale, fit, proportion and color matching should be ever present on your attire, when going for more ambitious combinations they become a necessity. For me, the most crucial aspect to successfully pull it off is coordinating the scale of the pattern with that of the item itself, bearing in mind that larger items are harder to work with. When in doubt start by incorporating small notes such as scarves, pocket squares or ties and slowly work your way up the chain.

This shirt by Paul Smith was the result of an impulsive purchase a few years back, which remained stored away in my wardrobe for quite a while…now, it’s one of my Summer statement pieces. Besides the outstanding color scheme, I love its versatility which allows for interesting casual looks as well as adding a twist to more classic ones. Here I went for a relaxed, put together look aimed at toning things down by making use of pieces in complementing solid colors. 

Organic cotton floral print dress shirt by Paul Smith, purple organic cotton crewneck tee by H&M, slate creased trousers by Boglioli, brown crepe sole boat shoes by Buttero, watch by Gucci, silver string by Goti (hidden).

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Give it up for…Camel

As AW offerings begin populating stores, both online and off, the time has come to focus on the upcoming season. As one delves into new collections and begins defining his wishlist and essentials, one key aspect to bear in mind other than style and function, is definitely the color palette. This year’s been all about bold, eye popping colors making their way into all sorts of garments… and Winter is no exception. Although in a toned down version of current pieces, one that accurately reflects and adapts to the wintery atmosphere, color is ever present on AW creations. 

Apart from the traditional all-rounders shades of navy, grey and black, there seems to be an overall bet on deep, rich colors such as green, burgundy and camel. For me, the latter will be one of the season’s staples. This lighter shade, as counterintuitive as it may seem for rainy, gloomy days, is the perfect way to brighten and liven up not only your outfit, but mood as well. There’s something luxurious about it, almost royal, that immediately carries on to you the moment you put it on.

I favour its use on all sorts of coats (sports, toggle, top) as these are the items that really make it shine, but do consider knits or cardigans as they work wonders as layering pieces. The perfect match for raw denim or charcoal slacks, camel seamlessly adapts to the outfit’s degree of formality. I’m really excited to see it at its peak, paired with burgundy, another of the season’s must haves (as Derek covered earlier)… such a killer combo. 

Paul Smith and Etro

Brooks Brothers and Paul Smith

Ralph Lauren and Martin Margiela

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Closing up on Gant Rugger

As I mentioned before, there are few websites I love as much as Close Up and Private. Sergey Sviatchenko single handedly revolutionized menswear imagery by means of his unique take on photography and composition. This time around he embarked on a collaboration with Gant Rugger to showcase their Autumn/Winter collection. The result? Brilliant as usual….

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Hill-Side’s Cherry Blossoms

One of the most discussed topics of the season has been the power of patterns and prints and how to make the most out of them. Stepping out of one’s comfort zone is always a risk and when it comes to pattern, few men are actually willing to try anything other than checks and stripes.

Leading the list of the most frightening variations are floral prints: men just can’t seem to dissociate the backward thinking that flowers are for women alone. Sure, they’re inherently related to a more feminine side, but as individual style continues to push boundaries which were once set in stone, the time has come to get in touch with your anima.

To help you on that difficult task, several designers have been offering all sorts of floral printed garments, but for those more reluctant to try it, Hill Side’s got you covered. Is there anything safer than sporting this print in one of the manliest staples around? Their cherry-blossom ties do just that…while incorporating the ultimate floral silhouette (love them on Japanese sleeves). Also, check the pocket squares, bandanas and scarves.

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Mc. Nasty x Engineered Garments

Super man McNairy just can’t seem to get enough of seeing his name all over the place, judging by the flow of collaborations and projects he’s been involved with lately. As I see it, the only downside is not being able to afford all the items on my wishlist, along with the fact that ideas are running out on what to call him by now…

This time around he joined forces with Engineered Garment’s Daiki Suzuki to bring us a batch of classic longwings with his usual dose of nastiness and wit. The twist here is that although being a pair, the left and right shoe present contrasting leather details, mainly regarding the type of leather used. They might not suit everyone out there, but then again, nor does the work of several other geniuses throughout history.

Source: Très Bien Shop

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Por Vocação AW11 Looks

Por Vocação just released their looks for AW11, featuring items from the likes of Paul Smith, Martin Margiela, Our Legacy, Acne and Band of Outsiders, along with a healthy dose of irony as the shoot took place on a sunny beach scenario.

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Beyond Fabric x Coisas d’Homem

I really love what the guys over @ Coisas d’Homem have been doing since they first opened their store in 2009. Their devotion to menswear accessories has placed them high up on the list of Porto’s men’s stores, becoming the place to go for original, one of a kind add-ons. If you’ve been following me for a while, you’ll most likely have seen some of their pieces, as most of my bowties were purchased there:

I’ve been wanting to work with them for a while now, and I’m proud to announce that the results of our first collaboration are almost ready for the debut! Carrying on our mutual passion for bowties this exclusive line will feature 4 styles in different fabrics, all in their successfully functional pre-tied version, for added comfort and instant flamboyance. Although the fabric used in each style is the same, each bow is unique as different cuts of the fabric are used, resulting in singular patterns and textures.

Keep an eye out as the styles will soon be available for purchase here at the blog!!

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The ultimate beach accessory

Every now and then we’re faced with a few hard to explain, yet interesting phenomena. The widespread adaptation of items or objects originally design for different purposes is well known to us all. During last week’s road trip I got a chance to experience first hand one such case. 

As I laid back on the beach struggling to perfectly capture my friends from Driftwood Collective on camera, I couldn’t help but notice the pervaded use by the surfing community, of one of the most unexpected items to date: the Ikea Shopper. Yes, I’m referring to the one you may purchase for €0.50 coming out of any venue of this Swedish giant.

Although at first the vision of groups of sunburnt surfers carrying their boards under one arm and indigo plastic bags under the other may seem utterly ridiculous, the truth is that within the relaxed, beachy background, they blend in amazingly well. Actually, it would make one hell of a beachwear editorial (IKEA, if you’re reading this don’t forget to credit me later on). If you come to think of it, the choice makes almost perfect sense: cheap, resistant, durable, waterproof and lightweight, you can throw anything in it and it won’t let you down. Furthermore, seeing how much love blue’s been getting this year (Pitti anyone?), they’re pulling it off with quite a bit of fashion panache.

 

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Monocle’s “Prom Party” Editorial

I’ve recently picked up the latest issue of Monocle and I’ve got to say: it’s packed with goodies. Among them, one that definitely caught my eye was this summer fashion editorial shot in good old students’ party haven – Benidorm. Besides the unquestionable styling, the most striking feature has to be the perfect match between look and background, resulting in a seamless blend of color and even pattern. Just goes to show how much an important role the surrounding environment plays on a photo. Truly inspiring….

Scans from Monocle issue 45

Photographer: Mark Sanders

Fashion Director: Takeharu Sato

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